Adventures in Type and Space: Deadwood

Deadwood - The Real Story

The true story in pictures and words, of one

of the rowdiest towns in the bloody

history of the American West

Deadwood in the 19th. century

The Dakota Territory was a vast area in the West, that existed in territorial status for almost three decades. It became a possession of the United States in 1861 when it was bought as a component of the Louisiana Purchase.

In its brief existence, which ended in 1889 with it being split into a pair of Dakotas (North and South) it gave birth to one of the wildest towns in the old West: Deadwood.

The photo above was likely taken around 1890, about a year after Deadwood became a part of South Dakota. That date also marks the last stages of the town's rowdy days.

During the period from the 1870s to the 1880s there were few places that could match Deadwood for putting the 'wild' in the Old West.

The settlement of Deadwood began illegally in the 1870s, on land which had been granted to the Lakota people in the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie.

General William Sherman, the third from the left ( to the right of the pole) meeting with the Lakota people in 1868. It was agreed that the land would belong to the Lakotas forever. Forever turned out to be about two or three years.

The discovery of gold in the Black Hills of the Dakota Territory spelled doom for the treaty of 1868. Once the news of the golden goose got out, there was no hope for the "Indians".

In an ironic spin of fate, the unearthing of the gold fields, was accomplished by none other than General George A. Custer. His expedition and findings led to a massive 'Gold Rush', the seeding of the town of Deadwood, and the breaking of the treaty with the Native Americans.

The Lakota people got some measure of revenge shortly afterwards at a place called Little Bighorn. I'm pretty sure you know how that turned out for 'Yellow-hair'.

General Custer posing with his sister, Maggie Calhoun

But this is about Deadwood and not the unfortunate army officer. So, let's get back to the narrative of the bustling little city born of the gold rush.

By 1876 Deadwood reached its highest population ever, 5000. The notables of town included Wild Bill Hickok, Al Swearengen (Bigtime dope dealer who became famous in the Deadwood TV series),Wyatt Earp and a few of his brothers, Calamity Jane, and a young 24 year old who nobody noticed called Jack McCall. More about him later.

This is the real life Gem Theater, headquarters of Swearengen who controlled the opium trade in Deadwood and nearby Lead City. Keep in mind that opium was legal during this period and there was no social stigma associated with its use. In point of fact, many physicians touted the benefits of using the drug.

Above, is a piece of advertising literature for Papine Opium. The writing on the side of the pamphlet says , "our goods are kept in stock by the trade throughout the country." The company was based in St. Louis.

Here's a physician endorsement used in some of the firm's advertising, "I have used Papine in my practice for some time and am thoroughly satisfied that it is the most desirable preparation of opium I have ever used and more reliable than any other form of opium."

Signed, Dr. C.H. Lovelace, Cashon, Tenn.

Papine Opium. Pick up a bottle or two today from good old Al Swearengen at the Gem Variety Theater. It also comes in convenient six-packs for when you're out on the trail!

Speaking of the trail, in February of 1876 Charlie Utter and his brother Stevie took a 30-wagon train of goods on the trail from Colorado to Deadwood. The train was packed with goods that Charlie and Stevie thought the town needed - mainly a bunch of prostitutes and gamblers!

This is a 1912 re-enactment of the 30-wagon train.

Wild Bill Hickok thought the wagon train was a great idea and not only rode one of the wagons but also invested in the enterprise. Calamity Jane jumped on the train in Wyoming.

Also among the people on the 30 wagons were Madame Mustache and Dirty Em who on arrival in Deadwood quickly set up little shops offering 'specials' for men.

Eleanor Dumont, better known for obvious reasons, as Madam Mustache, was a famous gambler who roamed from Texas to Montana. Everywhere she gambled she also opened Pleasure Palaces for Gentlemen.

To increase business she dressed (or undressed) her girls in spicy outfits and put them in horse drawn wagons to prance up and down every street in Deadwood. While this may have delighted the men it definitely riled up the non-hookers of the female population as well as any stray preacher who might wander into the village.

Though she did brisk business, life was tough for a girl with a 'stash'. True love was hard to come by. After Madam Mustache settled down a bit and bought a good sized ranch in 1870, she finally found real L O V E.

She was sure she had at last met someone who adored her, in Smiling Jack McKnight. He pledged his troth to Eleanor and she pledged her love to him, as well as a big share of the ranch.

But Smiling Jack did not want a share of the business...he wanted the whole thing. Within two years he conned her out of the ranch and all her money. He took a powder in 1872, leaving her with little more than the dress she was wearing and the hair on her upper lip.

Using her wits, and some shapely young ladies, Eleanor rebuilt her business in Deadwood and was doing very well financially in the hooker business - but she was not doing very well in the gambling business. No matter how much she made, she ended up gambling away her profits. By the end of 1878, she was once again almost penniless.

From there it got even worse for Madam Mustache. In 1879 she found herself in California at a place called Bodie. She was nearly broke but managed to win a couple dollars gambling, but soon lost it all back, as well as the tiny 'poke' she began with.

She ended up owing a lot of money, and she could not pay up. Fabricating an excuse that she would soon return with the cash and make good on the debts, Eleanor Dumont - the Mustache Madam - went outside the gambling hall.

They found her the next morning, lying in the dirt on a street at the edge of town. Wrapped around her hand was a large bottle of Laudanum - which is mostly morphine. It was a recommended pain killer in the 1800s.

For Eleanor Dumont it not only took her pain, but also her life. The town doctor said her death was suicide by an 'overdose'.

For Charlie and Stevie Utter, things couldn't have worked out better. they set up an express delivery service from Lead City and Deadwood to Cheyenne.

In the days when beef cost housewives about 15 cents a pound, Charlie and Stevie were getting 25 cents to deliver letters from Deadwood to Laramie - a two day trip. That doesn't sound like a lot of money, except that often they carried more than 2,000 letters per trip!

That's a cool $500 for each run, during a period where you could buy a whole wagon for under $30.00. That figure doesn't even count the other money they made from packages and other freight.

Wild Bill Hickok the famous gunfighter known even in Boston and New York for his exploits with colt 45s was also a frequent gambler and a heavy drinker.

Ancient Tintype of James Butler (Wild Bill) Hickok

Charlie Utter was not only Bill's partner in the 30-wagon train to Deadwood, but he was also one of the gunman's best pals. Charlie watched over Hickok to make sure his penchant for booze and gambling didn't bring him to harm.

But Charlie wasn't in the city on the night of August 2, 1876. Nor was he in town the day before when Wild Bill's last (mis)adventure began.

The great gun handler was playing poker at Nuttal and Mann's Saloon Number 10. Hickok was playing well and was well ahead when one of the guys dropped out.

A young punk, Jack McCall, known as a drunk, took the vacant seat. The 24 year old wasn't much of a hand when sober, drunk he had no chance and was soon wiped out.

Before the kid shed his last few silver dollars, Bill advised him to quit the game. Witnesses have testified that Hickok even offered Jack the price of a breakfast, if he'd exit the game.

The other Deadwood gamblers later said that Bill's kind gesture apparently damaged Jack McCall's pride. If he was insulted, it didn't prevent him from taking the money and leaving the saloon.

The next night Wild Bill was again at the poker table, but something was different. He usually sat with his back to the wall so that he could see in front of him and nobody could come at him from behind.

Hickok twice asked Charlie Rich to swap seats with him. But Rich wanted the 'back to the wall seat' for himself and refused to budge.

Drunken Jack McCall, as stealthily as possible, ambled into the saloon and planted himself squarely behind Wild Bill Hickok, shouting "Damn you! Take that!" while firing a slug from a Single Action Army 45 into the back of the gunfighter's head.

Bill Hickok died in a split second, but the slug had a second life, it kept on going and hit another player at the table in the hand.

When Charlie Utter got back to Deadwood and heard the news he was devastated. He claimed the body and placed a notice in the town's broadsheet, which read:

"Died in Deadwood, Black Hills, August 2, 1876, from the effects of a pistol shot, J. B. Hickok (Wild Bill) formerly of Cheyenne, Wyoming. Funeral services will be held at Charlie Utter's Camp, on Thursday afternoon, August 3, 1876, at 3 o'clock, P. M. All are respectfully invited to attend."

Charlie Utter's Tribute to his pal James Butler Hickok

Hundreds of townspeople attended the funeral. Charley had a wooden grave marker made, with the following inscription.

"Wild Bill, J. B. Hickock killed by the assassin Jack McCall in Deadwood, Black Hills, August 2d, 1876. Pard, we will meet again in the happy hunting ground to part no more. Good bye, Colorado Charlie, C. H. Utter."

An 'informal' jury failed to bring charges against Jack McCall because he convinced the men of the jury that he killed Wild Bill to avenge his brother, who died after being shot by Hickok. The story had a veneer of truth for a 'Lew' McCall was killed by a peace officer in Kansas.

Jack McCall got away with murder and would never have spent a day in jail, but for two things: his drinking and his bragging.

After a few shots of rot-gut, he old began bragging about killing the famous gunfighter. The town decided a second trial was in order and in the re-do, McCall was found guilty and soon after was hanged by the neck until dead.

Jack McCall, the assassin of Bill Hickok

Calamity Jane was an eccentric woman who became a legend as a frontier person, a performer in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show, a scout, and a close friend of Wild Bill Hickok. She even claimed that she and Bill were married, but there seems to be zero corroboration to that story. She spent a great deal of time in Deadwood when Wild Bill was there.

Though it's said that when she worked as a prostitute Jane looked pretty good, most people know her as a rough and tumble woman who dressed like a man - as shown in the photo below.

Calamity Jane

Here she is cooking up breakfast while holding an odorous cigar, in her left hand.....

And here's Calamity, dressed as a woman,

posing at Wild Bill's grave

Here are some more photos of Deadwood and other areas in the West, back in the late 1800s. Some are from the John C. Grabill collection, which he sent to sent to the Library of Congress between 1887 and 1892.

Deadwood in the very early days, just after the town made the transition from tents to wooden buildings.

In 1876 beef went for 20 cents a pound and there were dozens of skinners in town, like the two shown below.

Hunting down a Gray Wolf on the Plains in Wyoming

In 1873 the super market was always open and you could grab as much meat as you wanted - as long as you had a rifle, a sturdy mount, and didn't mind tracking and trailing.